Dual Wheels

Dual Wheels

Postby bison2500 » Fri Aug 06, 2010 6:27 am

What are people using for installing a set of dual wheels for the 16" rims? Where can I obtain
a set of spacers.
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Dual Wheels

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Re: Dual Wheels

Postby grummy » Fri Aug 06, 2010 7:57 am

bison2500 wrote:What are people using for installing a set of dual wheels for the 16" rims? Where can I obtain
a set of spacers.


Bison,
For Case tractors, I believe that most who have done it use a ring of steel that is placed between the outermost edges of the rims, then the two wheels are essentially clamped together with bolts in the holes used for wheel weights. This is nothing more than perhaps 10 gauge steel, just wide enough to keep the rubber from touching, rolled into a circle and welded. I don't believe I have ever seen "off the shelf" 6 on 6 wheel adapters or extensions, though they could be made if your ambitious. To make them, you really need a milling machine to fly off the hub plates parallel and locate all the bolt holes concentric so they don't wobble.

There is a serious issue here though. Far be it from me to be a naysayer... I love modifications to these tractors. BUT, on a Case GT, this is one modification that can easily cause you some grief if you are actually going to work this tractor. The plain truth is the factory connection between the axle shafts and the wheel hubs is GIMPY in comparison to some other GT's. If there is any flaw in that weld, your axle will crack at that joint with duals.

That weak link has shown up as a problem with bent wheel hubs too, as I have seen Case Gt's that may have had a short drop off of a trailer have wheels that wobble. So, you can do it, and we see photos all the time with this done, but you have to be completely thrilled with the prospect of yanking the rear axle to replace a potentially broken axle shaft.
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Re: Dual Wheels

Postby 3427 Ingersoll » Fri Aug 06, 2010 8:53 am

I have seen some dually adapters made by people. They use 2 round plates about 1/2 " thick and a round tube with about 1/4 inch wall to a diameter that is just small enough to fit inside the bolt pattern of the wheel mounting holes. The tube length would be made long enough so when welded between the 2 plates there will be about a 1/2" between the rubber. Two very crucial things here if you make them yourself or have someone to make them is that the plates need to be absolutely true to one another or you will be looking for trouble. When they are not true this is where it usually causes the problem of an axle breaking. If the out wheel goes up when the inner wheel goes front, back or down this puts a lot more tension on the axle. Same thing goes for if there is a wobble in the outer wheel meaning there would be a wider gap between the tires in some areas versus other. This scenario puts even more stress on the area where the axle plate is welded to the axle then the other scenario I mentioned here. Dual wheel adapters really need to be done in a lathe or by someone or company that is set up for making them and with experience. This is one add on to a tractor where it is better to spend more money to get something that is flawless. Hope this helps.

Dan
If we ever forget that we are One Nation Under God, then we will be a nation gone under.
Ronald Reagan
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Re: Dual Wheels

Postby bison2500 » Fri Aug 06, 2010 5:34 pm

Thanks for the comments. All good advice. Enough to make me hold off
for a while. Need to put some additional thought into this project.
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Re: Dual Wheels

Postby tchyted » Wed Jun 20, 2012 11:07 pm

i own a case 446 with a front end loader i believe was originally offered by sears roebuck. the loader is pictured in their manual with duals, which i wish i also had. with the loader, the rear of the tractor becomes unstable or looses traction when the bucket is full. adding "calcium", a brine solution used in tractor tires to make them weigh more, helps. this can be done at any tire store. oem had weights that fit into the rim of the 16s. i believe that these weights also had an accommodation to add the duals.
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